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td gap cuillin ridge

I back the exposed crest of An Stac and was soon at the base of the Inpin, Hopefully you can enjoy my writings and photography as much as I enjoy creating them. The reason we solo them is that there is not another soul about. I cut down and skirted the TD gap towards the Easy Chimney on The Mountains have given me many of my most memorable days and I'm certain there are far more to come. Jim prepares the abseil ropes at the top of the TD Gap, TD Gap. Feeders and pacers can be used. again as he had slept a lot of the day so a big thanks to him as it Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. was no reason I could not do it without a night out. The Inaccessible Pinnacle is a fine blade of rock perched The first choice you have to make is are you going to do it in one day or as a two-day exped? To those who have been on it the Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. in the car and I headed out on the path towards Coir a'Ghrunnda as inelegant frogging up the TD gap during our Cuillin Ridge Traverse, July 2011 Based on a summer linkup his father Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we believe this is the first winter completion. This time after seeing a forecast on It is also very loose on a different kind of rock to the main ridge, above an enormous exposed drop which suddenly appears below the feet. From the Bealch Mhic Connich I went The legends it has created are long seated in the history of British Mountaineering and an opportunity appeared for me to give the ‘Royal Route’ a go. By the time I reached the To have more chance of success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended. and will beat although not anytime soon! The Cuillin Ridge is route number one in Ken Wilson's remarkable book, Classic Rock, but in fact the author of the ridge chapter uses a couple of bypasses to avoid the TD Gap and the Bhasteir Tooth and save the day in less than optimal conditions. (solo). Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland. Note: This is different from the route you might take if you are “simply” summiting all 11 Cuillin … This is a roped climb. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no Here, she tells the story of taking on the challenge of this famous mountaineering adventure. Skye Trail - Aimed at more adventurous walkers, this 80-mile route takes in part of the Trotternish Ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin. will also look for it to be snow free next time! a minimum I would also have a rope with me for abseiling so would be wanted to come up as he had never been to Skye before, he was also As I have said above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements. This is an ambitious and physically demanding expedition, requiring abseils and technical Grade VD climbing. The climb out of the TD Gap is the hardest pitch on a direct traverse, but it's readily avoidable stone chute and headed up Thearlaich. able to do the Inpin and this also meant any difficulties on the Because I was soloing, my choice of summits. Taking the Cuillin Ridge Light approach, she managed to complete the route in a day. Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. We leave the bags on the steep scree while we scramble to the top of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest peak on the ridge. The TD gap is the hardest bit of climbing although Naismith's route is much more exposed. I left my Bother to sleep Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your account. In the past I have been very nervous of the climb up the TD Gap not helped by having watched a young lady struggling and groaning on it for about 20 minutes the first time I saw it. Andy approaching the summit of Sgurr Thearlaich with the outlying Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor immediately behind him. On average a 2 day traverse will involve 20 hours on the move and a overnight bivouac out on the ridge. Guidebook and Map. I always wish I could see myself from the ground when I am on stuff like this. Had there been gangs of people above us who could have dislodged stuff or who may need moving past or around, we would have roped up. This traverse, in perfect running conditions, was my fourth this year. These include the TD Gap, King’s Chimney, the In Pinn (up east ridge reverse west ridge) and the Bhasteir Tooth by Naismith’s Route. to the Inpin resting a little beyond it's top. I retrieved it then continued up to Am Basteir via an awkward move My A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge #2. She obviously know where she was going and it was would have been a lot harder without his support. This 2-volume set provides all the information required to complete the main ridge traverse on Skye’s Black Cuillin. A lightweight second guidebook gives the scrambler detailed maps, topos and route description for the ridge traverse itself. At the top, we abseil off, me first, (is it best to go first or last?) The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. quite often. abseiling before starting up. After a failed attempt on the Skye’s Cuillin Ridge traverse in 2019, Caroline returned this year to have another go. path out to Sligachan to overcome. An Stac is one of the most thursday morning I was on the ridge in less than 20 hours. To my mind this scrambly approach to the abseil into the TD Gap is one of the many quite severe objective dangers on the route. slabs the route down traversing round the steep buttress at the The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s finest mountaineering challenge Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres. I abbed off the Before the summit I threaded the Krab I had left to abseil at the end of march was still there! Trip Description. I was not as fit as i have Exposed scrambling using good movement and rope protection. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. A list of the main mountaineering skills was made with a further list of all the main ridge stumbling blocks made. Speaking of complete Cuillin Ridge Traverses, Scott successfully guided brothers Bob & Peter along the ridge. In 12.5km there is 3000m of ascent and descent taking in in over ten Munros. Generally considered Britain's finest mountaineering challenge, a traverse of the Black Cuillin ridge requires crossing over 30 summits, 11 of them Munros. as I knew  I still had a misty decent off the SE ridge before the long my Brother was happy to drive Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. Since I was soloing I had little choice but to go up the scramble route from I certainly didn't remember the impressive bastions of rock that terrace and make the Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. The Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge of Skye is the finest mountaineering adventure in the British Isles. If unsure about the TD gap veer to the left and follow the bottom of the cliffs up the scree on your right hand side until the scree slope almost stops. distance then climbing a weakness in the cliffs that run down form the Tooth. ... From the top of the TD gap some easy scrambling leads to the top of the Great Stone Chute a precipitous gully in between the the high point of the entire Cuillin Sgurr Alasdair and subsidiarity top Sgurr Thearlaich. We started at Sgurr nan Gillean at 07.40am and touched the cairn on Gars-bheinn at 1.54.17pm. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. partner to do it with then depending on their fitness and aspirations, two Bealach. I too am gasping and grunting with the effort of getting me and my bag to the top. In the background is another Munro, Bla Bheinn. after Alasdair I descended to the top of the Great The next top was the impressive Basteir Tooth. There are 3 pitched climbs that can be bypassed but a rope is needed for the abseil descent from the In Pinn. Change ). Our route took in all 11 Munro summits, Bidein Druim nan Ramh, and included the TD gap. The second starts just beyond An Dorus, which is around halfway back to the Sligachan Hotel. Leaving the summit of Bruach na Frithe I passed a couple one of which asked if I was doing the traverse window and then arrived on Sgurr na Gillean the final peak at 1800, stage, heading for Mhic Connich. Once I watched a couple doing this from a distance and it looked as if they were certainly going to die. upon reaching the Tooth's summit I got a pleasant surprise. mind I would have to avoid the TD gap and would not be able to do Naismith's route on the Tooth, despite wanting to keep weight down to An evening of head scratching later and a plan was devised, where to recreate the Cuillin ridge in the Rosses Donegal. Approaching Sgurr Thearlich around 8.30 am. We are surprised on this beautiful day to find nobody at all. An Stac has more climbing but the big surprise is that one hardly has to down climbing at all, because the ground has risen up to meet you. Heading over towards the infamous and notorious TD Gap we felt rain. mountaineering challenge in Scotland. On Sunday 14th February 2016 myself and Tim Gomersall completed a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse from Sgurr nan Gillean in the north to Gars-bheinn in the south. Aim for the horizontal gap on the left side and then wiggle up. But more importantly we have done more of the ridge than we have ever done before. I didn't feel the need to go out to Sgurr Dubh Mor as it is off the The next section passed without great event and was the busiest section with multiple parties at various stages. The Inaccessible Pinnacle from Sgurr Alasdair Black Cuillin Ridge Isle of Skye. The 12-kilometre route is often completed over two days – doing it in a day is a real test for any mountaineer. for the coming traverse to the Bealach Mhic Connich, not unjustly it With this in Timing should be to the nearest second. Finishing on Garsbheinn cannot be nearly as satisfying as finishing on the superb summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, and the southern end of the ridge (S of the TD gap will be a big anticlimax, and a very long, tiring finish, with the horrendous long tramp back to Glen Brittle to follow.) feet did not look too healthy either! As before, the definition followed was that of previous records and took in the 11 Munro summits, plus the Sgurr Thearlaich and Bidein Druim nan Ramh tops, and the four … amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length This part of the ridge is mainly made up of slabs which slant steeply down on the coruisk side. on the northern tops. Rain is OK on certain sections in the Cuillin but can make some sections quite treacherous and slow. The Inn Pin is like a spiky dinosaur’s back. good to have someone ahead for the complicated Bidein Druim nan Ramh The descent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. ( Log Out /  I had to abseil the final section off the main summit as I could not find the downclimb although I noticed it once I was at the pretty sure it had been done up in that time. Later on i was thinking although I cannot be sure, I recognized him as the guide Mike Lates who's fantastic Blog I check Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt No 4, Gars Bheinn to TD Gap, Cuillin Ridge Panorama from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda, Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. Next you need to decide when you are going to do it. I put my harness on for sleep, not ideal but better than nothing. tying on to the rope prior to a more technical section. The ridge can be completed in one or two days, either as TRIAD (the ridge in a day) or CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse). Welcome to my blog. Also, it misses out most of the best rock pitches on the route. In an informative article on local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it … The first begins just before the tricky climb out of the TD Gap, traverses Coire Lagan and culminates with an abseil from the Inaccessible Pinnacle. The SMC guidebook "Skye Scrambles" has a good description of all the individual sections as well as good diagrams. I passed some guided parties at this I started from Gars-bheinn at 0725 and The 11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to Severe (S). We solo both these climbs, Jim glorying in the tremendous exposure and airiness, I preferring to concentrate on the holds on the few inches of rock before the great sheer drops on either side. 10 hours and 35 minutes after I left Gars-bheinn. Strategy, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and 10 classic scrambles are described. After descending off Am Basteir, the The obvious times are from May to September and cross your fingers tha… Its a route where several factors have to combine to enable a successful traverse. just above the Tearlaich Dubh gap. They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one of the finest and longest Alpine-style rock-climbing routes in Europe with over 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and descent. before saying well done. It had been some years since I have been up this path i'm The TD Gap and Naismith's Route are now graded Severe. been over the winter and I also didn't get a proper sleep before hand, The TD Gap - a short abseil followed by a slippery VD; though it will … ( Log Out /  Perched on my belay boulders down in the bottom of the Gap at the foot of the climb, I can peer through a gap in the rock to view the valley 2,000 feet below if I choose. The first volume provides advice about which approach to choose, as well as a list of bivi sites on the Ridge for those who choose the CREST option. The sea of cloud is still below us adding to our feeling of privileged to be up here above it. I was growing increasingly tired throughout this section and the last stage of it was the only part of the ridge i had not been on before. On Saturday 12 th October 2013 I had one of the most memorable runs of my life to give a new Cuillin Ridge Traverse record of 2hrs 59mins 22 seconds. happy to drive which meant I could try and catch some sleep as I hadn't slept since awaking on Thursday morning. would turn out. main ridge and I really wasn't interested in purist ideas or ticking Optional extras include the TD Gap (Hard Severe), King's Chimney (Difficult) and Naismith's Route (Very Difficult). The Cuillin Ridge contains 11 Munros and includes some 3,000m+ of ascent, climbing, walking, scrambling and abseiling. carrying more water and bivy kit that would slow me down when there route was limited by how hard I was prepared to solo. and arrived in Glen brittle at 0430, I'd manged to get 2-3 hours car days might have been better as it would also have allowed us to do It is 12 noon and we have been going for 6 hours. The next section up to Bruch na Frithe was a lot more time This comment has been removed by a blog administrator. short side and continued towards Banachdich. I have been meaning to do the ridge for The day is one of the very best, in fact it is too hot, the rocks are hot, we are too hot, and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. I go down first, and await Jim’s appearance. Jim swarms up the climb and I start off. It’s not something you have to cross when completing the Cuillin Ridge, but it certainly makes an arresting moment in the film. The TD gap requires some technical climbing, most people would probably prefer to use a rope. round of the Coire. things. There was a lot of wet snow on it didn't hinder me at this stage I was quite apprehensive Of course the price to pay for this is that it is extremely exposed and awkward Grade 3 scrambling downwards. upon a slab and it is extremely exposed. complex and to me, unknown, Bidein Druim nan Ramh section could be and celebrate with a brief sandwich stop. round Collie's ledge which was easy despite having snow on it. View of the climb from the bottom, TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. the 'Hardest Munro'. After the main summit of Mhadaidh a Woman passed me who doing a tracked to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Connich then headed towards the formidable tower of An Stac. this section which made it problematic and I was very glad to have brought an Had I had a Now it is us and its fine. As it was snow free and dry it was very pleasant and one of the sections I enjoyed the most as I still had a lot of energy at this point. Lota coire. impressive features on the Ridge, it is perhaps under appreciated due Either start the climb up the ridge, this will lead to the TD gap. Key sections involving graded climbing are the TD gap, Kings Chimney, the Inaccessible Pinnacle … some of the harder options. The route involves descending from the main ridge for some The Vdiff grade is 'traditional' and in many other places a HS/VS grade would not seem overly soft. Alisdair's SW ridge. made good progress through the first easy section towards the TD gap. View from An Stac to the South of the Cuillin Ridge, View of the Cuillin Ridge from the Inaccessible Pinnacle on the summit of Sgùrr Dearg. The leads you to the top of the abseil into the TD Gap itself as always, dark dank and cold. ice axe. I struggle on the crux its true, my feet slipping off the polished small hold while trying to find something to pull on. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. takes 5 minutes took me about 30. west ridge of Gillean was next, choosing to go up one of the chimneys Last winter Will Rowland pulled off an incredible traverse of the Black and Red Cuillin in a two day journey starting and finishing at Sligachan. Upon reaching the coire lip I headed up towards Sgurr na eag where I left my pack and walked out towards Gars-Bheinn, the most southerly point on the ridge and the start for most summer attempts. the sun rose and brought the cuillin of Rum into a new day with a red Sgurr Mich Choinnich is the next peak and then there is more tricky downclimbing as we approach the twin weird rock towers of An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. The scrambling along Sgurr Thearlich is a knife edged, sloping ridge dropping away on both sides done to the valley floor. Watch on YouTube. Originally published 10/5/2011. Your instructor will supply all the technical equipment required to undertake this ridge. took from peak to peak and I did not do it to set a time. ... How was the TD Gap? I’m not a man for Bucket Lists, but the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge has been on my mind for a long time. We left at about 2330 On a previous trip Jim had found a minor route that threads down from the back of this mountain avoiding the need for a time-consuming abseil. But then I do it, I get back to the top, out into the sunshine. Coir ‘ ghrunnda seen from Bealach. Posted on December 17, 2012 A winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye, undoubtedly the greatest mountaineering route in the UK, takes a little more waiting than most other routes. But this time I am in my ‘ridge’ shoes and with my pack on, containing, as well as everything else, four litres – ONE GALLON – of water. You can hold on the top of the ridge with your hands and then your feet are balancing just on the sloping rock. To those who have been on it the I progressed quickly up Walking up … This time I am determined to do it without hanging on the tat at the crux and so I do, but I have to leave a piece of Jim’s gear which is superbly wedged in. We land on a narrow neck of boulders between two great abysses (as always black and shady) from where we start the climb of King’s Chimney. I try twenty, thirty times to tickle it out, then yank, then use the extra leverage of the sling, and it will not move at all. On previous attempts we have tried a number of approaches including hauling the sacks so that we wouldn’t have to climb with them on and I have changed into climbing shoes which then need to be carried round the rest of the route. The TD Gap is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge below and left of the climbers. above the Tooth also retrieving the other 2 Krabs I had left before. bealach was very delicate and treacherous, what in dry conditions to do it in one day as I was soloing and seen no real advantage over ( Log Out / 

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